I started into day 5 after the rain had gone around noon. A last waffle tuned my blood sugar up and I hit the road. First a few kilometers along the road, then a first time wading through a meltwater leading stream and further up a driveway to a lake. Then a pathless section followed. First I scrambled up a couloir and found myself in paradise! Round rocky ridges, hollows with small ponds and swamps, countless pairs of startled snow grouses, arctic terns and chirping golden plover (Heilo på Norsk). Intuitively I cruise through such terrain. All senses are open. An incredible flow!
Then I reached the dam of Store Måsvannet. This belongs to a huge network of large reservoirs. On a dirt road I continued to the next dam. On the veranda of the new lodge I consumed my Reingryterett in the lee. Strengthened, I hiked along the access road along two lakes. Thunderous masses of water flow through the connecting channel blasted into the rock. At the end of the road I had to roll up my pants again and wade through the Gáissavuolesjohka. My target for the day was reached.
For the next day I expected difficult to walk, absolutely pathless terrain up to the Gáissane. These are the highest elevations of Finnmark at about 1’000 m above sea level. I started at 6 o’clock in the morning. Instead of taking the path up to Stálogáisa (585 m a.s.l.), I chose a direct route up through a hollow of the eastern flank. At a weather station I reached the ridge and could hardly keep on my feet in the wind. Over countless pre-peaks I then reached the highest point, marked with a stone tower. Breathtaking view over the Laksfjordvidda in the east and to the deeply snow-covered Gáissane in the west. I had to put a question mark behind my plan to stay overnight up there in the tent with strong wind and announced rain. But maybe the first impression was wrong. So I went on. I reached quickly the snowy area. Rotten snow, meltwater streams everywhere and underneath the scree fields were breaking my speed considerably. The speed only increased again when I discovered a fresh bear track on a snow field. Now it was clear: I will not spend the night here in the tent and serve Master Petz as a change in the meager spring menu without reindeer and grouses. For two hours I trilled into my whistle, hoping the bear would stay away from me. I observed its tracks several times on my escape in the direction of the Tana river. This is the border river to Finland. Once in the snow-free area, where there were reindeer and grouses again, I felt safe again and packed the whistle. The ringing in the ears continued for a while. Through meltwater marked rough, but green terrain with various stream crossings I reached the Tana valley. Just before joining the E6, one last challenge awaited. The second half of the bridge was tilted by the tearing water masses. Sitting down I pushed myself over it. Dead tired I reached the Levajok Fjellstue after about 14 hours hiking.
Note: according to some comments with a track chart on my Insta post, it rather suggests to be a wolferine (German: Vielfrass)
Geology The peaks are characteristic rounded heads, which protruded from the ice cover and therefore eroded more slowly than the surrounding area. Frost blasting leads to these rounded heads. The terrain is correspondingly stony and blocky. The Gáissane form the overthrust front of the southeast-trending Caledonian nappe stack onto the Precambrian basement. The Caledonian orogeny occurred about 500 million years ago. Note: this information may be incorrect. It stems from not cited scientific sources plus my personal interpretation and aims at explaining the “truth” in a simplistic way.