The start of the adventure

The first days offered everything: enchanting landscapes, the whole range of weather, many insights, but also confirmations, new acquaintances and also nothing: hardly any traffic, never boredom.

The same evening of arrival in Mehamn I set off. Several crossings of streams, snow and boulder fields led me to the 1st camp. After a few hours sleep I went down to the Sandfjord, along the cliff to the foot of the Nordkinn and then up to the northernmost mainland point of Norway the Kinnarodden. My run-in was completed. I am at the start of my NPL adventure! From now on there’s only one direction.

Over block fields, around lakes and snow cornices it went with strongly increasing wind southward. The wind got me out of the tent again after 2 hours and forced me to continue. An attempt to put up the tent behind a overseas container failed because of the hard ground and the wind. I broke off the march because I almost fell asleep while walking. Like a vagabond I lay down again behind the container, later behind a stack of pallets on new fishing nets in the sun to sleep at least a little. Then followed the crossing of Nordkinnhalvøya to Hopeseidet along the road. At Hopeseidet only 500 m of land separate the Hopeseidetfjord from the Eidsfjord. Set up camp, ate, and then after a total of 13 hours of sleep I continued.

First a wind-protected valley cut up on to the plateau and into the strong wind. In the proven hourly rhythm with breaks in the lee of the roadside I crossed the fjell. At Reinoksvannan it started to rain. In no time I was frozen through, could hardly open and close the backpack buckles during the breaks. The back also rebelled in ever shorter intervals. So I searched for relief and got rid of the snowshoes at a weather station. With 2kg less on the hump it went on in the pouring rain. The weather forecast for next day announced splendor weather. so I decided to branch off according to plan to the Langfjordelva and wanted to set up camp there near one of the few fisher huts for the night. Already after few hundred meters I rejected the project. If already with the inflow the side brooks cannot be crossed without wading, then it becomes probably not better. So back on the road and further down to Bekkarfjord. On a large farm I asked if I could put up my tent behind the barn. The farmer Lise offered me however immediately the guest bed in the farm building. I could not refuse! Warm shower, eat and then sleep.

The next day was completely different. Pure sun. Instead of wondering when the rain would turn to snow, I rolled up my pants, applied sunscreen and was soon craving water and shade. Up the Martadal to Langvannet and down to Bukta along an old telephone line and past countless herds of reindeer with their fresh-born. From Bukta I followed again the coastal road to Ifjord. Obligatory geologist stops at numerous outcrops and views to the sea shortened the hike. As a reward there was reindeer steak, waffle with raspberry jam and pær sider. Heavy rains are forecasted for the night and Sunday morning. Therefore I move into a camping hut.